Machine knitted Clapotis scarf – maskin strikket clapotis tørklæde

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Inspired by Kate Gilbert http://www.kategilbert.com/ms_clapotis.html

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have made a few hand knitted Clapotis scarves and wanted to try it out on the knitting machine.

 

This particular scarf was made in a very thin boucle mohair, tension 10 on a standard knitter.

Use any yarn that is not too slippery, or the stitches either side of the ladders will glide. Use a looser tension than you would knitting stocking stitch.

You need a garter bar, a thin metal rod or a thin circular knitting needle to remove the stitches from one side of the machine to the other.

 

For this width (app.35 cm) of scarf I cast on at needle 60 -59,  If you want to make it wider or narrower, choose another place in the needle bed to begin accordingly.

If in doubt, just start in the middle of the needle bed, and transfer the stitches to the side when you are satisfied with the width.

Cast on 3 stitches, knit 2 rows. Now increase one stitch in the end of each row until the side of the triangle equals the width you want your scarf to be.

 

 

As you can see, I have increased stitches all the way to the left side of the needle bed.

Now it is time to drop every 6^th stitch. Locate the 5 middle stitches and start either side from there. Let the stitches fall, BUT REMEMBER TO PUT THE NEEDLES BACK IN WORKING POSITION!

 

 From now on you decrease one stitch on the left hand side, and keep increasing on the right hand side, on every other row.

There will be new stitches formed on the needles where you dropped them before, but you will drop these stitches with regular intervals and this way complete the ladders all the way down through the knitting.  The dropped stitches will need a bit of help running all the way down, especially if you have used fluffy yarn or boucle as I did.

Pay attention to which needles it is to be dropped, if possible mark them with a felt tip pen or something.

Looking at the ongoing decreases on your left edge, every time you get to a marked needle, let that and all the other stitches drop before continuing you decrease. Remember pick up the stitch on the empty needle and work it like any other stitch you are decreasing, to maintain correct number of stitches.

At the same time you will form new ladders at the right side, as you continue letting every 6^th stitch drop.

This way the knitting will gradually wander from the left to the right side of your needle bed, and when you can’t take it any further, transfer all the stitches onto a garter bar (alternatively a thin circular needle or thin metal rod), and move them back to the left side of the machine. Continue knitting until you are satisfied with the length of your scarf.

VARIATION: An option, I haven’t tried yet – when reaching the right side of the needle bed, instead of transferring the stitches to the left, one could reverse the increase/decrease, and work back towards the left side – this will make an angular scarf instead of a straight one.

Once you are happy with the length of your scarf you start decreasing on the right side as you are already doing on your left – still remember to drop stitches regularly as before. Continue till you have 2 stitches left, cast off.

The scarf I made of this thin yarn was 3,5 meters long, and the sides were different, so it was a bit of a challenge to stabilize it.

First I pulled two equal lengths of smooth nylon string along the edges, and stretched the lot out on the floor, with some old sheets underneath. This enabled me to adjust the sides, and steam the work thoroughly.

 

 

 

But I needed more support along the edges, so I cut strips of water soluble fabric and pinned it on the edges, before removing the nylon string.

Then I used my sewing machine to sew the water soluble fabric onto the edge, first with a narrow zigzag, and on top of that a straight seam.

I then rinsed the scarf to remove the fabric, and was now left with a stable, but very thin seam at the edges. I then crocheted around this with a matching colour, and after this keeping the shape was no problem.

A final steam made the last finish.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Knit, cut and sew – strik, klip og sy

I am SO behind in blogging, there is so long a list of things I wanted to show you that I don’t know where to begin.

So I’ll just start at random by showing you how I did a top that I have machine knitted in a wool-silk quality, and which didn’t quite fit:

Jeg er bare så langt bagefter med alle de ting  jeg gerne ville vise her på bloggen, at jeg ikke ved hvor jeg skal starte – så jeg tager et emne i flæng og det er hvordan jeg har klippet og syet en top jeg har maskinstrikket i en uld-silke kvalitet, og som ikke helt passede mig:

Before cutting I sew with a matching colour first a narrow zig-zag, on top of that or right beside it a straight seam with small stitches:

Før jeg klipper syr jeg med matchende farve først en smal zig-zag, ovenpå eller lige ved siden af den en lige søm med små sting:

Then I cut close to the stitching – nu klipper jeg tæt ved syningen:

The edges will fray a bit and need a close trimming with sharp scissors. Raise the fray with your fingers or a brush.  Before:

Kanterne vil trævle og de skal trimmes tæt med en skarp saks. “løft” frynserne med fingrene eller en børste. Før:

And after:

Og efter:

Sometimes I hand graft the pieces together, but here I was pressed for time, so I used the sewing machine, just like you would any other fabric. Here is the machine sewn and steam pressed seam:

Sommetider syr jeg stykkerne sammen i hånden med maskesting osv., men denne gang havde jeg travlt og brugte symaskinen. Her er den færdigsyede og damp pressede søm:

I can’t find the picture of the finished top right now, will have to take a new one later.

Jeg kan ikke finde billedet af den færdige top lige nu, så det må vente.

This is NOT Kauni…. dette er IKKE Kauni…..

For a while I have been experimenting dyeing something that will give the same effect as Kauni and Evilla yarns when knitted – but made in a soft, lovely wool!

I still need to fine tune the technique, but here is first attempt:

En tid har jeg eksperimenteret med at farve noget der vil give samme effekt som kauni og evilla garn når det strikkes – men lavet i dejlig blød uld!

Teknikken skal stadig finpudses, men her er første forsøg:

Her ser man det farvede strik før det trævles op og gen-fixeres

I also made a piece like the one on the right, for sampling:

Jeg lavede også et stykke magen til den til højre, til at lave prøver af:

    

Her har jeg strikket et stykke sammen med en ensfarvet gråblå, for at man kan se effekten

The technique I am using is no secret – it is simply knitting a blank using the knitting machine, painting and steaming it, unravel and re-steam to straighten the curls.

Teknikken jeg bruger er ingen hemmelighed – det er at strikke et stykke på maskinen, farve og fixere det, trævle op, bundte og dampe igen for at få krøllerne ud.

Next lot ready to be dyed is made of silky-wool – to be continued….

Næste portion der ligger klar er strikket i silke-uld…. fortsættelse følger!

Flere maskinstrikketing – more machine knitting stuff

Flere ting til salg:

Først et sæt Marion Nelson mønsterkort, dette er vistnok grundsættet med tre modeller trøje/bluse, nemlig ærmeløs, med indsat ærme og med raglan ærme. Disse tre modeller er der opskrift til i 4 forskellige garntykkelser og 16 forskellige størrelser, fra overvidde 46 cm til 122 cm. Altså ialt 64 forskellige opskrifter af hver model…det ser sådan her ud:

   

pris: 100 kr + porto.

Og et par bøger:

Først denne, en grundbog i maskinstrik baseret på Knitmaster 323, med en del grundmønstre og nogle særdeles anderledes kunstneriske ideer. En god begynder bog til en knitmaster ejer:

        

Pris 150 kr + porto.  SOLGT!

Denne her er en god grundbog i håndstrik ( der er ikke noget om maskinstrik, trods beskrivelsen på forsiden), med en del vægt lagt på tilretning af opskrifter efter egne mål:

Pris 75 kr + porto.

Denne her kræver vist ingen præsentation:

Pris 50 kr + porto.

Clearing out sale – long time no see

It’s been a long time since last post, life has been a bit demanding in the meantime, but now it’s time to get back in action.

I have spent some time going through my stuff, found some things I have forgotten I had, and some things I don’t need anymore – and these I am putting up for sale in the time to come, as I get them ready.

First thing on the list is a Brother PPD-120, new except I have tested it, in original box and Danish plug, including Danish manual and an English Diane Bennet book:

          

Price: 1200 D.kr. + posting

 

SOLGT!

Motorized again!

I am now the happy owner of a Powerknit 90 motor for my knitting machine, this is what the courier brought – Applaus to Clair’s husband, who put in a great effort to pack this safely!

It is now set up and ready to use – took a few frustrated days, as some of the innards had been shaken loose during transport, but that is all solved now.

So I am busy knitting samples and planning for the first 10 garments I want to make..

But I am also going to work on motorizing my drum carder – more about this later!