I found the picture of the green tank top, of which I showed details of the cut-and-sew process in an earlier post.
Now it is well worn – I love it! made of silk/wool yarn it is warm enough and cool enough for most temperatures. I am certainly going to make more of those for the summer…
One thing I finished this winter, and am quite satisfied with, is my Nicole II kimono, handknit in a wool/cotton mix yarn that I dyed, on 3 mm needles.
First time i saw this pattern was a small presentation picture in an old German magazine, Nicole, from sometime in the ’80’s. I search high and low for a long time for the issue with the pattern, and FINALLYa kind soul found it and send it to me.
The original pattern is a combination of knit/purl stitches for the horisontal rows, and fishermans rib for the vertical.
That I didn’t have the patience for, so I changed the pattern completely to a knit/purl pattern:
You are welcome to use this pattern, for personal use only, though.
It was fun to knit, and quite quickly to learn.
Opskriften kan evt oversættes ved hjælp af translater.google.com, indsæt url’en fra denne post. Og ellers spørg hvis der er noget der er uklart.
Inspired by Kate Gilbert http://www.kategilbert.com/ms_clapotis.html
I have made a few hand knitted Clapotis scarves and wanted to try it out on the knitting machine.
This particular scarf was made in a very thin boucle mohair, tension 10 on a standard knitter.
Use any yarn that is not too slippery, or the stitches either side of the ladders will glide. Use a looser tension than you would knitting stocking stitch.
You need a garter bar, a thin metal rod or a thin circular knitting needle to remove the stitches from one side of the machine to the other.
For this width (app.35 cm) of scarf I cast on at needle 60 -59, If you want to make it wider or narrower, choose another place in the needle bed to begin accordingly.
If in doubt, just start in the middle of the needle bed, and transfer the stitches to the side when you are satisfied with the width.
Cast on 3 stitches, knit 2 rows. Now increase one stitch in the end of each row until the side of the triangle equals the width you want your scarf to be.
As you can see, I have increased stitches all the way to the left side of the needle bed.
Now it is time to drop every 6th stitch. Locate the 5 middle stitches and start either side from there. Let the stitches fall, BUT REMEMBER TO PUT THE NEEDLES BACK IN WORKING POSITION!
From now on you decrease one stitch on the left hand side, and keep increasing on the right hand side, on every other row.
There will be new stitches formed on the needles where you dropped them before, but you will drop these stitches with regular intervals and this way complete the ladders all the way down through the knitting. The dropped stitches will need a bit of help running all the way down, especially if you have used fluffy yarn or boucle as I did.
Pay attention to which needles it is to be dropped, if possible mark them with a felt tip pen or something.
Looking at the ongoing decreases on your left edge, every time you get to a marked needle, let that and all the other stitches drop before continuing you decrease. Remember pick up the stitch on the empty needle and work it like any other stitch you are decreasing, to maintain correct number of stitches.
At the same time you will form new ladders at the right side, as you continue letting every 6th stitch drop.
This way the knitting will gradually wander from the left to the right side of your needle bed, and when you can’t take it any further, transfer all the stitches onto a garter bar (alternatively a thin circular needle or thin metal rod), and move them back to the left side of the machine. Continue knitting until you are satisfied with the length of your scarf.
VARIATION: An option, I haven’t tried yet – when reaching the right side of the needle bed, instead of transferring the stitches to the left, one could reverse the increase/decrease, and work back towards the left side – this will make an angular scarf instead of a straight one.
Once you are happy with the length of your scarf you start decreasing on the right side as you are already doing on your left – still remember to drop stitches regularly as before. Continue till you have 2 stitches left, cast off.
The scarf I made of this thin yarn was 3,5 meters long, and the sides were different, so it was a bit of a challenge to stabilize it.
First I pulled two equal lengths of smooth nylon string along the edges, and stretched the lot out on the floor, with some old sheets underneath. This enabled me to adjust the sides, and steam the work thoroughly.
But I needed more support along the edges, so I cut strips of water soluble fabric and pinned it on the edges, before removing the nylon string.
Then I used my sewing machine to sew the water soluble fabric onto the edge, first with a narrow zigzag, and on top of that a straight seam.
I then rinsed the scarf to remove the fabric, and was now left with a stable, but very thin seam at the edges. I then crocheted around this with a matching colour, and after this keeping the shape was no problem.
A final steam made the last finish.
Hej alle,
Nu har jeg strikket mig en møbius vest efter Elisabeth Zimmermans instruktioner – så langt så godt. Men den er for løst strikket – da jeg tog den på blev den ½ meter længere.
Nu vil jeg så valke den, men jeg er nødt til at have et par sidestykker i for at den kan nå om mig. Spørgsmålet er om jeg skal montere den færdig og så kyle den i vaskemaskinen, eller om jeg skal valke stykkerne umonteret og så hækle den sammen bagefter??
Now I have made a moebius vest following Elisabeth Zimmermans instructions – so far so good. But it is knit too loosely – when I put it on, it got ½ meter longer!
Now I want to felt it, but I have to add some side panels to make it wide enough. The question is, should I finish it completely and then put it in the washer, or shall I felt the parts separated, and then crochet toghether afterwords??
And then from the nursey – nyt fra barnekammeret:
5 days old
I know it is not perfect, but it usable and it is my FIRST!
I look forward to play a lot more with this new hobby of mine, wood turning – got a little lathe in the workshop, now trying to learn the basics. GREAT FUN!
Jeg ved den ikke er perfekt, men den er brugbar og det er min FØRSTE!
jeg glæder mig til at lege mere med min nye hobby, trædrejning – jeg har en lille drejebænk i værkstedet og er nu ved at lære det basale. SJOVT ER DET!
FINALLY
I managed to finish a pair of socks – that doesn’t happen often.
Mainly because handknitting is getting harder to do, especially knitting with 5 dpn needles as I have always done. I am now trying with circular needles, one or two at the time, easier but still very slow.
Anyway, this yarn is the leftover from some handdyed grey merino that Karen gave me in a dyed fiber swap, I spun it and navajo plied it, the main part was used on a cardigan that (also) needs some altering, I will show you pictures when done.
I devided the yarn in two equal amount and started knitting toe up, looking forward to the day I could put warm cosy handspun socks on my freezing feet.
But alas…
Doh!
Took a couple of days of grumping to redo that. Hrmpf.
Another problem was the cast off edge on the rib – I tried a new method, a variation of back stitch cast off from ”Knitter’s Handbook” by Montse Stanley , but it looks awful and is not really elastic.
Now that is redone with my usual back-stitch cast off method (adapted from machine knitting), and that just works, looks nice too!
So now off to start the next pair, while I still remember what NOT to do!
Found a link with a drawing of the method here: http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2179134540102033689ulqLXx
